The world was shocked to see the devastation left by a wildfire that impacted Lahaina in August 2023. More than 14 months after the wildfire, the town shows signs of healing.
On a trip to West Maui in April 2024, I found that the area was still very much dealing with the immediate trauma of the fire. Honoapiilani Highway, which runs along the coastline and through Lahaina, was closed and only open to local access. The Lahaina Bypass was the only way into and out of West Maui.
But there were signs of what had happened: digital signs along the road warned of trucks hauling debris entering and exiting; a neighborhood of burned homes and palm trees was briefly visible on a short stretch of road just before you reached Kaanapali; in Kaanapali, just to up the coast from Lahaina, which was no impacted, affordable housing protesters camped on the beach, lobbying for stricter control of vacation rentals.
A Year Later - What is it Like to Visit Maui
First, it's important to understand that the fire was highly focused on Lahaina town and neighborhoods just to the north in Wahikuli on the way to Kaanapali. Kaanapali, Napili, and Kapalua were not directly impacted. Also, remember that Kihei town and Wailea, in South Maui, were also unimpacted.
Honoapiilani Highway is Now Open
Honoapiilani Highway (Route 30), the main road that leads into West Maui and through the Lahaina area before leading up to Kaanapali and Kapalua is now open. You do not have to take the Bypass up and around on your way to Kaanapali or Kapalua.
Will You See Destroyed Homes & Businesses
The answer here is yes and no.
While the burn zone in heart of Lahaina town is a no-go zone, much, if not most, of the destruction is not visible from the road. There are tarp walls that have been put up along the road that obscure the view. Also, with Hawaii's year-round growing season, foliage and greenery are returning to the landscape. Not visible from any road, the famed Lahaina banyan tree is said to be healing and showing signs of new growth. Strangely, you will see homes left unscathed by the fire in the middle of the burn zones.
...100% of impacted residential properties have been cleared and are prepped for new construction.
There is a largely residential area just before Kaanapali where you will see fire impact, but according to the Maui Wildfire Recovery Dashboard, 100% of impacted residential properties have been cleared and are prepped for new construction; over 139 building permits have been issued and many homes are already under construction.
Signs of Community Life
There are reassuring signs of everyday community life in areas that were closed just a few months before. For example, driving along the Honoapiilani Highway, I noticed a school football practice taking place in the field by the Lahaina Recreation Center, a small sign that the rhythm of regular community life was starting to return.
Can You Access Shops & Services
Lahaina Cannery Mall and Lahaina Gateway Mall, just past Keawe Street on Honoapiilani Highway, are open and busy with shoppers.
At Lahaina Cannery Mall, Longs Drugs, Jersey Mike's Subs, Starbucks, a large ABC Store, and Safeway are all open and operating normally. Across the road at Lahaina Gateway, you'll find Foodland grocery (excellent poke bar, pic below!), Ross, and other shops. Just adjacent is a complex with another Starbucks, Walgreens, and fast-food outlets.
Lahana Cannery Mall Art Fair
On Saturdays, the Lahaina Arts Society art fair featuring pieces made by local artists is in full swing in the parking lot of Lahaina Cannery Mall. I'm unsure when this started up again, but it's a welcome sign and a fantastic way to support local artists. You can grab a coffee at Starbucks and walk over to peruse the art. You can also purchase pieces from Lahaina artists on their website, including a Lahaina banyan tree Christmas ornament.
Restaurants & Old Lahaina Luau
Perhaps the most hopeful sign of commercial rebirth is the little "restaurant row" thriving behind Lahaina Cannery Mall.
Some restaurants in this area had opened last by last spring; however, now there are even more.
The Old Lahaina Luau has been open for several months, but it's wonderful to see this visitor attraction doing well.
Just next door, you will find Aloha Mixed Plate in its old location along the water. The restaurant is doing well and offers a harbor-side spot to enjoy classic Hawaiian comfort food like barbecue chicken, roast pork, and kalbi ribs with rice and mac salad.
Right next to Aloha Mixed Plate is Star Noodle, a favorite of residents and visitors alike. The building has a sleek look and offers a menu with dim sum, lots of sharable plates, and delicious bowls of ramen, saimin, or udon noodles.
Just next to Star Noodle, Honu Oceanside has reopened with a sleek, bright new interior with a buzzy bar and dining scene. Per its name, the restaurant offers oceanside dining. The menu is seafood strong but also offers Neapolitan-style pizzas and meat dishes.
Moving along, just next to Honu Oceanside, you'll find the always cute Mala Ocean Tavern. Mala was one of the first restaurants to reopen after the fire. The restaurant is a popular oceanside dining spot with an excellent menu. The oyster shooters and braised pork shank are incredible!
Across the street from Mala Ocean Tavern, Coco Deck Lahaina is a fun sports bar-like restaurant offering an eclectic menu that is "a blend of Mexican, Local, American, and Seafood cuisine," according to its website. It also opens at 8:30 a.m. on Saturdays for breakfast and football!
This cluster of restaurants has a great vibe at night and points to the progress made since August 2023.
Will You Feel Welcome on Maui
The answer here is an unambiguous "Yes."
In the immediate aftermath of the fire, there was understandably a focus on the well-being and needs of the local community. Community members wanted to ensure their needs were heard and addressed before the island welcomed visitors again.
While the recovery process is ongoing, many interim needs have been addressed, with displaced residents offered temporary housing either in residential units or hotels. There is no longer a protest about short-term rentals on Kaanapali Beach, and the County is moving to phase out vacation rentals in some areas to - in concept - provide residents with more long-term homes.
A More Sensitive World - A More Conscious Visitor
The discussion on Maui of controlling the nature of mass tourism is not unique. It's a topic of debate in any place where tourism is an economic driver. Local governments everywhere are trying to strike a balance between the needs and quality of life of residents, environmental impact, cultural sensitivities, and tourism. On Maui - West Maui in particular - the fire brought this already present issue to the fore. Should a big hotel company build another massive resort with hundreds of rooms in a sensitive ecosystem already bursting at the seams with visitor traffic? The question is valid.
However, like other popular destinations, Maui relies heavily on revenue generated by tourism. On Maui, tourism directly supports around 40% of GDP and jobs and indirectly impacts around 70%. More than ever, Maui needs tax revenue and job support. Government officials and residents understand this; your choice of Maui for a holiday is always appreciated.
The people of Maui, and of Hawaii generally, are happy to share their beuatiful islands and proud heritage. Like anyplace we may visit in the world, taking a moment to appreciate a historic site or recegnize its significance to local peoples is a good approach. Simple politeness and common courtesy go a long way. Remembering that what is a vacation destination for us, is for many - home.
Helpful Tips for Visiting Hawaii
Learn Before You Go: Take a little time to explore the rich history and culture of Maui and Hawai‘i before your visit. There are wonderful resources tailored for both children and adults to help you connect with the island’s heritage.
Explore Beyond the Luau: Embrace Maui’s cultural depth by exploring activities led by local guides. Whether it’s a hike, a storytelling session, or a hands-on workshop, these experiences offer a deeper connection to the island and its traditions.
Respect Wildlife: Seeing wildlife like sea turtles basking on the beaches is magical, but it’s important to give them space. Admire from a distance and never touch them to ensure their safety and yours.
Follow Signage: Pay close attention to posted signs. If an area is marked as off-limits, it’s often for good reason—either to protect fragile ecosystems or for safety concerns. Respecting these boundaries helps preserve Maui’s beauty and keeps everyone safe.
Should You Go to Maui?
Yes! Maui is absolutely ready to welcome.
John Di Rienzo
Exotic Estates Team
